Thai Haeng occupies an old-school Chinatown shophouse that's changed little over the decades. Neither has the two dishes they're known for - khao man gai chicken rice and sukiyaki noodles - both of which are cooked the right way, there's no shortcuts here.

The khao man gai is just as it should be, moist tender poached chicken, slightly oily rice perfumed with ginger, and a soy-based sauce spiked with lots of garlic and chilli. But though you can find renditions of Thai chicken rice all over the city, a good sukiyaki is harder to come by. Try their signature suki haeng, dry wok-fried glass noodles with pork or seafood, morning glory, egg and cabbage tied together with sauce of garlic, chillies, a little palm sugar and red tofu paste fermented with wild rice. This is old-school Bangkok cooking at its best.

Finding Thai Haeng involves diving down a tiny Yaowarat alleyway on the western edge of Bangkok's Chinatown. The only sign is in Thai, so look out for the street side glass display box housing their poached chickens. Inside is a Thai-Chinese time warp - round marble-topped tables and teak doors ways surrounded by old white tiles clad to high-ceiling walls.

Plates of khao man gai and suki haeng are surprisingly good value hovering somewhere between 40-60 THB (around US $1.25-1.95).