There's no two ways about it - pa tong go (sometimes called you tiao) is a crowd-pleaser both with locals and farang. What's not to like? The golden crisp and surprisingly airy dough slathered in sangkhaya bai toey, a coconut and palm sugar custard perfumed with pandan leaves, are unspeakably good.
You can find pa tong go all over Bangkok- it's often eaten in the morning with jok rice porridge (minus the sweet Thai custard) - but there are few places that match this unassuming street stall at the western edge of Yaowarat Road in the city's Chinatown.
Anywhere that cooks just one dish and stands the test of time is going to be good. Discerning Bangkokians don't return if the food isn't up to par and they do every day at Pa Tong Go Savoey where the queues start to form even before the daily opening time of 5.30pm.
The chef-owner (usually referred to as "Uncle") is on-site every night regardless of weather and can be watching skilfully flour dusting his work surface and slicing strips from the mother dough before pinching and throwing into a bubbling wok of hot oil. His second in command keeps the dough flipping with large chopsticks ensuring the pa tong don't burn and serves the punters of which are seemingly never ending.
Michelin have finally begun recognising street vendors in Thailand and the Michelin Plate award they gave Pa Tong Go Savoey and has only gone to lengthen their queue. Don't be put off. It's well worth the wait particularly at the end of a moveable food feast through Bangkok's Chinatown.
Other than Mondays when the whole district's food scene closes down for the weekly street clean, you'll find Pa Tong Go Savoey open daily from 5.30pm until 11.30pm or whenever they sell out. I'd recommend not heading there too late because they often do.