Nang Loeng Market continues to be one of Bangkok's best kept food secrets. Since the late 19th century this small marketplace surrounded by old shophouses has been feeding the hungry. Don't let the tiny size deter you from going, you'll find some of the city's most interesting and oldest eats like Neua Tun Nang Loeng, a 50-year-old multi-generation beef noodle house.
It occupies a charming wood and brick corner shophouse off one of the alleyways leading away from the central market spot. Slow-braised beef simmers in aromatic Chinese herbs and spices in a large copper cauldron out front until it falls off the bone and leaves a fragrant meaty broth in its wake.
The outdoor kitchen is manned by the third generation owners who are particularly friendly and though little English is spoken make much effort to look after their foreign guests. Not that they need too, they're slammed with locals between 10am when they open through to the end of lunch when most of the market closes down. There's a collection of tables inside and along the alleyway outside, but expect a short wait particularly during the lunchtime rush.
Bowls are inexpensive, particularly considering the generous portions of beef. A bowl starts at 50 THB (around US $1.61) and a few baht extra for large. If you're going to try just one bowl of beef noodles in Bangkok, Neua Tun Nang Loeng is the place to do it.