There's little about the food at Khao Kluk Kapi Naingow that's recognisable as Thai to foreigners and even Bangkokians struggle to find this dish in the city. But that's no reason not to seek out this small street stall which sets up along Chana Songkhram Alley in the northern edge of the old town.
It's base is steamed Thai rice stir-fried in shrimpy kapi paste and loaded with a long list of ingredients - slightly chewy cured Chinese sausage and sweet pork, dried shrimps, crunchy raw red onion, cucumber, green beans, coriander, fiery dried red chillis, julienned tart unripe mango, hard boiled eggs and slices of cold wok-fried omelette. A wedge of lime adds a citrusy note, though it's not strictly necessary. The kaleidoscope of punchy flavours compete on the plate and while it may sound overpowering, it works. If you tire of Bangkok's green curries and pad krapow stir fry, Khao Kluk Kapi Naingow is a refreshing change.
There's a scattering of metal tables along the pavement, but this is lunch box territory. Most swing by the stall to grab one of the ready-made takeout boxes or have their own created. They open between the early morning and mid-afternoon or until they've sold out (which they often do). If you want to be seated, try to avoid the breakfast and lunch hours.