Nang Loeng Market isn't far from the tourist strip Khao San Road, but for reasons I've yet to fathom it's almost entirely devoid of foreigners. This tiny but historic little food market has been feeding hungry Bangkokians since 1899 and some of the city's best and most unusual foods are found among a kaleidoscope of street stalls and shophouses, not to mention being home to Bangkok's oldest silent cinema.
One such place is Khao Gaeng Rattana housed on the ground floor of a typical Nang Loeng shophouse. Old wooden shutters open up on both sides of the corner spot revealing a charming little eatery with a small collection of tables both inside and along the market alleyway.
Out front are rows of trays with over a dozen daily changing curries and stir fries. There's no menu and little English is spoken. Don't be daunted. This is Thai-Chinese cooking at its very best. If in doubt, point at which you'd like (two to three are usually good for one large meal). Everything is served with fluffy steamed white rice.
Plates here aren't expensive, 100 THB (around US $3.20) will get you a good lunch. Khao Gaeng Rattana has short hours opening at 10.30am and closing just after lunch at 1.30pm every day (other than Sunday when the market is closed). It's a busy lunch spot so arrive early if you want to dine in.