There are several jui guay stalls along Yaowarat Road in Bangkok's Chinatown. It's an often overlooked snack among foreigners almost entirely because few people know what it actually is.
The base of the snack is water cakes made from rice flour, water, a little salt and oil steamed in small moulds. The best are soft with a slight gelatinous texture with a small indentation in the top. Unexciting as they are, these little morsels come alive with sweet and salted preserved radish and soy sauce. Cheap, cheerful and best eaten as pre-dinner appetiser.
The dumplings are popular in Singapore, Malaysia and other South East Asian countries where Chinese immigrants, specially from the Teochew region, brought the recipe.
Some of the best jui guay (also called jui kueh or chwee kueh) are cooked by a vendor about half way up Yaowarat Road on corner of Yaowa Phanit Street. The soft water cakes are fresh and moist while the preserved radish is slightly oily and salty and kept warm in a large copper pan over a clay Thai barbecue. To spice up the water cakes, drop a couple of small ladles of the stall holder's nam som, a fresh chilli and white vinegar blend.
The stall holder doesn't keep standard hours, but they are generally there between 9am and 5pm or until they sell out. A bowl of six costs 40 THB (around US $1.30)