Kanom gui chai tod is one of the many Thai street snacks that are almost entirely unknown to foreigners. You don't typically see them in your local takeout or restaurant back home. Nor do you see them that often in Thailand.
But they are good, very good. The main ingredient of Chinese chives, which have a subtle flavour of wild garlic, are transformed into diet-busting snacks with rice flour, tapioca flour and a lot of hot oil. There are two types - stuffed dumplings and the crispier cake-like variety. A dark sauce of sweet soy sauce, vinegar, a little chilli and palm sugar is easily soaked up by the crispy morsels.
Like much of Thailand's cuisine, kanom gui chai has its roots in China the recipe travelling over and with migrants and adapted to Thai taste. It's therefore unsurprising that Bangkok's Chinatown is a good place to look for them.
The best we've found is Jay Noi, a vendor that sits among a cluster of street stalls along Charoen Krung Road. It's easily identifiable by the large round skillet that's almost continuously frying the dumplings across the afternoon and evening. They often sell out five to six hours after opening at 2pm so don't visit too late. There is a few shared tables, but most grab the gui chai to takeout. It's easily eaten while walking.
They aren't expensive - any combination of three dumplings with sauce is 30 THB (US $0.95).