Eiah Sae, a coffee shop that sits along the quiet Phat Sai street just parallel to Yaowarat Road, is a time capsule, a place almost entirely unchanged since 1927 when it opened. It's a long-standing meeting point and social hub for the older generation of Thai-Chinese in Yaowarat, a place which stubbornly refuses to change in step with a quickly modernising Bangkok.
It's similar to Singapore's charming kopitiam coffee houses. The faded egg-yolk coloured exterior and outdoor tables are kept shady from Bangkok's midday sun by an awning. It's sign, erected in the '80s displays the name in Thai (meaning 'Fortune Incoming') along with an inscription stating "60 years of good coffee".
Old Thai-Chinese men take up the wooden tables playing cards, chain smoking or sitting cross-legged reading the paper below framed photos of the king and paintings of old Bangkok. It's an atmospheric place to linger through the hot days or stop for a quick caffeine pitstop.
Eiah Sae may be a coffee house, but don't expect them to keep up with Bangkok's current coffee trends. They'll be no flat white or macchiato here. Just strong dark coffee sweetened with condensed milk and brewed in a sock filter. Anything else would be shunned among their elderly clientele.
While I'd urge you to try the coffee, there are several other drinks on the menu - Thai milk tea, black tea, refreshing lemon iced tea and a traditional coffee tea blend called nor kao.
The fourth generation coffee house is one of the last bastions of old Bangkok. The clientele are ageing, but if Eiah Sae can resist the urge to change (and it seems to be just fine), it will surely be discovered by a new generation of Bangkokians in the future.